IDS '10

Just came back from the Interior Design Show here in Toronto this weekend.

There were so many amazing things to take in!!! My mind is positively brimming with ideas. I took many pictures and will post them soon, along with a full rundown down of the show!

Pirate John

This video features the wonderful John Galliano in conversation, as he explores the wonderful treasures of the House of Dior. He such a pirate, that John, and I admire him. Here we get to see a small sampling of the fantastic archives of Maison Dior. As John shows each piece, he explains the story behind it and highlights the workmanship in each fantastic garment. I love the contrast, yet similarity, between the original work of Christian Dior, and John's present day creations.

Who is John?

John Galliano - Trustee of the Dior Legacy, is my Fashion Idol. John's talent is monumental. But beyond this, it is his outlook on life and his humanity that I so strongly am drawn to. He has served as mentor to me for as long as I can remember an interest in fashion. His business sense, immense creativity and humlity teach me that I can become a success, while keeping my soul intact. I am forever in his debt.

A cool quote from John : " It's been a long time since I left (college) but I still feel like a pirate that is plundering the globe for beauty and gems of ideas. A memory, a moment, a person is the greatest treasure... but a diamond is a very good second."

2010 Golden Globes: Best Dressed

In the sea of red-carpet sameness, one other person stood out at the Golden Globes:


BEST DRESSED : GINNIFER GOODWIN

As soon as I saw a photo of her Vionnet dress, my jaw dropped. Her dress was fresh, fun, youthful and didn't look like she was trying too hard. It perfectly suited the occasion. The colour was vibrant, the proportion worked with her frame, and the draping details were lovely. It didn't overpower her in any way, and I wasn't distracted by anything like crazy ruffles, or mad-cap shoes...I just looked at her. I especially loved how she accessorized the look. Beautiful long earrings that drew attention to her face (and that fab new hair cut), and those editorial shoes. Black and Blue is not safe combination, but it worked. Also, the way she stood and held that umbrella added to the appeal.

As I often do, I checked the On the Runway Blog to see if anything was reported on the Globes. The blog's author, NY Times Fashion Critic Cathy Horyn, posted that she didn't see anyone that really caught her attention. She too was tired of the bland carbon copies, and was on the lookout for something fresh, and fun. I thought to myself, what of Ginnifer? I was delighted to see that in her second Globes post, she further commented that "Ginnifer looked terrific"....and exemplified the new style she was referring to earlier. It's encouraging to know that she and I were on the same wavelength.

Photo Credits: GettyImages.com

2010 Golden Globes: Best Dressed

Still working on that Fall Couture Post. In the mean time, I have to gab about the Golden Globes.

In a nutshell, it was yet another parade of boring, bland fashion. Everyone in Hollywood is so obsessed with keeping the status-quo that every starlet looks EXACTLY alike. The same up-swept hair, the same mermaid shape with a train, the same one-shouldered dress, the same boring jewels....You could swap the faces of the women onto each other's bodies, and I guarantee - you couldn't tell the difference. The dresses now are so similar that it no longer matters if the label is Armani Prive, Marchesa or the local dress-maker. They all look alike.

Only two women really stood out and rocked my world. First:

BEST DRESSED: MONIQUE



When I found out Monique won Best Supporting Actress for her role in Precious, I screamed- "You go girl!!" She had a glow about her that was unmistakable. She positively beamed. Her look was simple and elegant, with the emphasis placed on all the right attributes.

The colour of the golden Reem Acra gown complemented her skin, the draping highlighted the right curves, the swept back hair and lack of distracting accessories kept the focus on her dramatic eyes....it just worked.

On a subconscious level, it was also great to see someone who is not a size 2 on the red carpet looking fabulous. You go girl!!! Let's hope she keeps the momentum going till Oscar time. I'm rooting for you!!

Photo Credits: Photo: Nytimes.com

Fall Couture Follow-up - The Formula

Patrick Demarchelier's shot of the Dior atelier workers. Note the toile mock-up and finished coat on Natalia

As promised, I am posting about the Haute Couture for the Fall 2009 season. We established the identity of Madame X a few posts back, and now we get to sink our teeth into her fashion 'buys.' Follow along as we ask ourselves, "Would Madame X wear this?"

THE FORMULA

When shopping at couture, it is best to loosely follow a simple formula. Each fashion house has a specialty, something that they do better than any other. Buying a garment from these houses comes with the knowledge that a better constructed example does not exist. By formula I mean the following:

1. Jackets - Dior. Christian Dior founded his house on the Bar Jacket. Under John Galliano's leadership, it has taken on a whole new meaning. A better fitting, more classically flattering example does not exist.
   
   
2. Tweed Suits - Chanel. This winter staple is so tied to the House of Chanel that I can't tell if which came first, the suit or Coco Chanel.
   
   
3. Everyday Jackets - Givenchy. Newcomer Riccardo Tisci has carved a name for himself by updating and modernizing the jacket silhouette. Definitely one to follow.
   
   
4. Ball Gowns - Dior. Unabashed romance is a house code of Dior. No one does over-the-top, Scarlet-O'hara drama like this Ave. Montaigne atelier.
   
   
5. Corsets - Jean Paul Gaultier. He made Madonna's iconic cone bra. Need I say more?
   
   
6. Trench Jackets & Outerwear - Jean Paul Gaultier. What I love about JPG is that he will create a fiercely tailored piece, but will then throw in a threatrical element that will elevate an everyday item to a level of imagination few can dream up.
   
   
7. Dinner Dresses - Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld is excellent at creating pieces that are best appreciated close up. Perfect for that cocktail or sit down dinner.
   
   
8. Coats - Christian Lacroix. Lacroix has a painter's soul, and the palette of his coats calls to mind the works of great artists.
   
   
9. Red Carpet - Christian Lacroix. Once again, it his eye for colour that set's him apart. Sure, every actress will clamor to wear the latest Chanel or Dior straight off the runway. But Lacroix has a much lower profile. Juxtaposingly, his dresses are anything but quiet. They are as individual and as poetic as the master himself.
   
   
10. Cocktail & Pant Suits - Ralph Rucci. Simply put, the last word in quiet chic. Ralph does the Little Black Dress like no one else.
    
    
11. Accessories - Armani. Whoever design's the Armani Prive accessories does a brilliant job. They provide just the foil that Armani's sometimes old-hat silhouettes so desperately need.
    
    

I say this is to be loosely followed because it's important to be open to the odd surprise. Some seasons we may find a great corset at Chanel, while coveting the ball gown at Gaultier. While these surprises aren't the norm, it is good to go in with an open mind. What couture does so well is that it gives us the designer's undiluted vision. We are exposed to interesting ideas on cut, proportion, styling, colour and texture. Couture also parades before us the best embroideries, best fabrics, etc. done by some the most talented people alive today.

Dovima, wearing YSL for Dior, in Richard Avedon's iconic "Dovima with Elephants."

You may have noticed that I left some out well known houses - namely new comers like Anne Valerie Hash and Alexis Mabille. I can honestly say that while I have only seldomly observed their work, I was never impacted enough to investigate further. I do not doubt that they have created beautiful clothing. I have just haven't seen it.

I have also left out Valentino, Elie Saab and have regulated Armani Prive to just accessories. There are reasons behind this:

Elie Saab is a talented designer. He has long been the go-to for the after-dark set, but ultimately he suffers from one main problem - inconsistency. Sometimes his collections contain stunning pieces. But too often I feel that for every good frock, there are 5 hideous ones that should never had left the atelier floor. His collections have also gotten weaker in the last couple of years.

Valentino Garavani will forever be known as the king of unapologetic glamour. He made women look their most beautiful. Sadly after his retirement last spring, his house has struggled to find its footing. After promising collections by Alessandra Facchinetti, she was ousted (quite publically - she was notified via the morning paper -YIKES!!) and replaced by a duo team of accessories designers that have flip flopped from slavish homage to overtly courting the too-young Gossip Girl audience. The House that Val built was long a mainstay for gorgeous evening dresses, and of course, the signature red dress. The new designers would be good to return to that foundation.

Armani Prive by Giorgio Armani was the last of the old guard to join the couture crew. While I think him talented, I have never thought there was anything he did better than the rest. Surely Giorgio and Co. create beautiful things, but in my humble opinion, others do them better. Couture should push boundaries or make a statement in cut, colour, fabric, etc. Sameness therefore does not cut it for me. I think his shows have greatly benefited from the hand of good stylist. Whoever styles his shows does a good job of updating his sometimes dowdy clothing with modern hair and edgy accessories. These glittering add-ons sometimes so outshine the frocks that is clear that Armani himself did not design the jewels.

Now that all this is out of the way, we can examine the clothes!!!

Wish list: Coffee table books

Every time I go to Chapters, I lust after the following books. To me, they are so much more than just books. These tomes chronicle the lives of two men who have hugely influenced by interest in fashion and represent for me the dream that I will one day achieve. I study these books like text books, and pour over them like a good novel. I dream that they will one day find their way into my possession.

BOOK # 1 - Dior, 60th Anniversary Edition by Assouline

It is MASSIVE, and it probably weighs about 15 lbs. Whenever I flip through it, I have to prop it up against a shelf to support the weight. But it contains every image and detail on the House of Dior. Maison Dior is of course under the cloak of the formidable John Galliano, who I adore. This book commemorates 60 years of this celebrated couture house.

There is a copy of it in the Scott Library at York. I stumbled upon it one day while I was researching a paper. It's hidden up on the 3 rd floor, WAY at the end of long corridor, in the Oversize section. Sometimes when I'm really frustrated with life and in dire need of a good pick-me-up, I go there after class. There, in a little secluded nook, I lay it out on the ground and pour over the images.

I have made a pact with myself. This Christmas, I'm investing in myself and buying this book. Some people invest in good shoes, good furniture, why not good books? That will be $305 well spent.

BOOK # 2 : Valentino by Taschen

Valentino recently retired last year, and the documentary chronicling his career gives us a peak into the life of fashion's last emperor. This book is stunning. Val is one of my major inspirations and to own a piece of his legacy would mean so much to me. What then is $70? Never a trip to the bookstore goes by without a good flip-through. If it goes out of print before I can afford it, I would be heartbroken.

Too often we sit around, hoping and wishing for things to happen. I've got more important financial priorities at the moment, but I will continue to work toward adding these two canons of fashion history to my library.

Photo Credits: Dior Book: Assouline.com; Valentino Book: Taschen.com

Holt Renfrew Challenge #3

CHALLENGE #3:

Choose your favourite style icon from 1920 - 2000 and recreate their signature look.

When I read the challenge mandate, only one person came to mind - John Galliano!

John Galliano is Fashion's Pirate, Trustee of the Dior Legacy & my Mentor. His talent is monumental. But beyond this, it is his outlook on life and his humanity that I am so strongly drawn to. His business sense, immense creativity and humility teach me that you can become a success, while keeping your soul intact. I am forever in his debt.

A cool quote from John :

" It's been a long time since I left (college) but I still feel like a pirate that is plundering the globe for beauty and gems of ideas. A memory, a moment, a person is the greatest treasure... but a diamond is a very good second."

John is known for his outlandish looks. While some designers shyly poke their heads out to the crowd at the end of a runway show, John relishes the opportunity to make his entrance. He has been known for taking to the runway in full hair and makeup, strutting like his models and posing for the camera. What really gets attention are his outfits. Always interestingly-attired, John emerges to his public as character from his collections. One season it was Charlie Chaplin, another it was Madame Butterfly's Colonel Pinkerton. He has been the Spanish bullfighter, the bloody and sweaty boxer, or even the Marquise De Sade. John has explained that this is his way of closing the chapter on the present collection, and creatively clearing his mind for the next. Also, he is following all those beautiful models in their Dior clothes, so he has to make some effort!

Here are a couple of his iconic looks:

John as a vintage sea-explorer, a Spanish Bullfighter, a Colonel Pinkerton, & a street imp

Pinning John down to one look is hard, because he is such a chameleon. But if you look closely, some elements are always present. The fitted vest/ blazer, an theatrical coat/ jacket, and a hat. There must always be a kooky hat!!

I've chosen his look from the Fall/Winter 2005 Couture show, that commemorated the 100th anniversary of the birth of Christian Dior. John served up a genius collection of transparency, classic Dior shapes, and cultural influences.

Let me paint you a picture of his spectacular entrance: As the final girl exited the runway (more like a movie set with lavish props), there was a clash of thunder on the speakers. Smoke filled the room and an actual carriage, drawn by a horse, pulled up. The lights dimmed, and out emerged John looking amazing.

John Galliano after Dior's Fall/Winter 2005 couture show

This look would be relative easy to replicate. I already have the vest. I would need a pair of really funky pants, the hat, the flower pin, and a blond wig. The challenge would be translating his fierceness and energy onto camera. A friend of mine has a trampoline in his backyard, and I was thinking that I could ask him to take the shot as I jumped up and down in the air. Can you imagine the finished snapshot?! Hair flying, fabric flapping, arms and legs extended, all frozen in mid-air. How cool would that look! The only question is, would the wig hold up?

Photo Credits: Style.com