Famed model Dovima in a Balenciaga suit, shot by Richard AvedonAs I have been pouring over images of the Fall Couture collections, I have been thinking of the best way to to evaluate them. Couture is indeed an art form, and deserves to be revered as much as great sculpture and painting. But let's not forget the medium of couture - clothes. You don't wear a painting. You don't put on a piece of sculpture. You wear couture. What more practical way is there to understand this medium, than through the lens of a buyer?! I thought it would be fun to create a fictional character, write a narrative of her life, define her desires, outline her schedules, and in so doing understand, "what would she wear?"
Now, it must be said that are real haute couture (h/c) buyers out there. These women are the well-heeled of the well-heeled. When embroidered dresses from Chanel can crouch close to $90,000 dollars at least, you know that these women do not worry about money. Many times they are the wives of billionaire businessmen, sheiks, or are royalty themselves. These women are largely unknown to the general public because the spotlight generally rests on Hollywood actresses and divas who don h/c to drum up publicity for the brand. However, those actresses must return the frocks the next day, whereas these women own their clothing.
Alex. A, a frequent blogger on Cathy
Horyn's blog On The Runway, runs a blog herself called
The Polyglot, and is the definitive word (at least that I have found) on the couture customer. She does a great job of researching who these ladies are, and examines their stylish choices.
Alex does an amazing, and I must say - exhaustive job - of defining for us the true essence of couture. I've included some topics and their corresponding links for those curious minds who seek to understand more about h/c :
Why so haute? : She examines the cost breakdown of these extravagant pieces.
High Art? : Can you really compare an embroidered dress to a Monet?
Inside an Haute Couture Garment: An intimate look at the work that goes into the clothes
These are all worth a read. Not a skim, or breeze over, but a 'prop-your-legs-up-and-relax-with a-good-book' read.
For now, let's meet our stylish fashionista. Inspired by the scandalous spirit of John Singer Sargent's portrait, let's call her Madame X.
Well, who is Madame X? She's 37. She is married to a Hong Kong billionaire who is CEO of a family-run construction company that is responsible for much of the construction boom in mainland China. No building above 10 stories goes up in Shanghai without his knowledge. Rumour has it that Monsieur X has ties to a powerful Hong Kong triad and is making a bid for political office next year. (If we're going to invent this ourselves, why not make it interesting?)
Although her husband is well-established, Madame X is a self-made woman. She was born in Venezuela and grew up an only child. Raised by her aristocratic mother (The Doña) who took her to couture shows when she was a child.
Madame X went to private school in South America, and did her MBA in Paris. There she met Mr.X. They have two daughters, aged 8 and 6, and a son, 5. A working mother, she runs the client-negiations arm of a communications firm that is competitive in the global market. A tough, no-nonense negotiator, Madame doesn't take no for an answer.
Now you're wondering? Why all these details? Ahhh! Look closer, and you'll see they tell a story about her habits and style :
1. First, her marriage to a Chinese businessman is reflective of the fact that there is a new emerging couture clientele - the Asian customer. The U.S and the Middle East have long been sources of well-heeled ladies, but now that the Far East is exploding economically, a new client base has been created. Brazil and India are also emerging markets.
2. She's 37. That means she's at a stage in her life where she knows exactly what she likes and what looks good on her. Yet she still has a youthful spirit that loves trying new things.
3. She Venezuelan. That means she is a hot-blooded, passionate South American. She likes bold flavours, bold colours, sensual silhouettes. Madame X is no plain Jane.
4. She comes from an aristocratic family. This serves to show two points. It tells us that Madame X is a woman of pedigree and upbringing. Also, her trips to the shows with her mother at a young age also make reference to couture's past. Many of today's clientele were similarly introduced to high fashion through this very method. Carolina Herrera is one example. She has talked about going to see her first Balenciaga show at a young age.
5. Doña X. The other purpose is to introduce Doña X, a couture customer in her own right. Such older women still make up a large portion of couture's customer base, and bring a list of wants and tastes all their own. We will examine some of her choices as well.
6. Her husband has political aspirations and is a CEO. This means that there will be a full social schedule packed with balls, openings, ribbon-cutting ceremonies, press luncheons, and the like that couture caters so well to. Her husband's bid for office means that the low-cut Gaultier number with the thigh-high slit will not be an option to be worn in public.
7. She has three young children and is a working mother. Therefore she needs a practical wardrobe. There's now way she can run after a 5 year old in a satin corset. This woman needs pants suits, good jackets, and things that she can throw on easily everyday. After all, no working mother I know has 3 hours to get ready in the morning.
Is it all falling into place? What we in effect have just done is create a customer based on marketing analysis of consumer buying habits. It's Marketing 101. Using her as a filter, we will examine the Fall collections together and ask ourselves:
Would Mme. X wear this?
