Patrick Demarchelier's shot of the Dior atelier workers. Note the toile mock-up and finished coat on NataliaAs promised, I am posting about the Haute Couture for the Fall 2009 season. We established the identity of Madame X a few posts back, and now we get to sink our teeth into her fashion 'buys.' Follow along as we ask ourselves, "Would Madame X wear this?"
THE FORMULA
When shopping at couture, it is best to loosely follow a simple formula. Each fashion house has a specialty, something that they do better than any other. Buying a garment from these houses comes with the knowledge that a better constructed example does not exist. By formula I mean the following:
THE FORMULA
When shopping at couture, it is best to loosely follow a simple formula. Each fashion house has a specialty, something that they do better than any other. Buying a garment from these houses comes with the knowledge that a better constructed example does not exist. By formula I mean the following:
- Jackets - Dior. Christian Dior founded his house on the Bar Jacket. Under John Galliano's leadership, it has taken on a whole new meaning. A better fitting, more classically flattering example does not exist.
- Tweed Suits - Chanel. This winter staple is so tied to the House of Chanel that I can't tell if which came first, the suit or Coco Chanel.
- Everyday Jackets - Givenchy. Newcomer Riccardo Tisci has carved a name for himself by updating and modernizing the jacket silhouette. Definitely one to follow.
- Ball Gowns - Dior. Unabashed romance is a house code of Dior. No one does over-the-top, Scarlet-O'hara drama like this Ave. Montaigne atelier.
- Corsets - Jean Paul Gaultier. He made Madonna's iconic cone bra. Need I say more?
- Trench Jackets & Outerwear - Jean Paul Gaultier. What I love about JPG is that he will create a fiercely tailored piece, but will then throw in a threatrical element that will elevate an everyday item to a level of imagination few can dream up.
- Dinner Dresses - Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld is excellent at creating pieces that are best appreciated close up. Perfect for that cocktail or sit down dinner.
- Coats - Christian Lacroix. Lacroix has a painter's soul, and the palette of his coats calls to mind the works of great artists.
- Red Carpet - Christian Lacroix. Once again, it his eye for colour that set's him apart. Sure, every actress will clamor to wear the latest Chanel or Dior straight off the runway. But Lacroix has a much lower profile. Juxtaposingly, his dresses are anything but quiet. They are as individual and as poetic as the master himself.
- Cocktail & Pant Suits - Ralph Rucci. Simply put, the last word in quiet chic. Ralph does the Little Black Dress like no one else.
- Accessories - Armani. Whoever design's the Armani Prive accessories does a brilliant job. They provide just the foil that Armani's sometimes old-hat silhouettes so desperately need.
I say this is to be loosely followed because it's important to be open to the odd surprise. Some seasons we may find a great corset at Chanel, while coveting the ball gown at Gaultier. While these surprises aren't the norm, it is good to go in with an open mind. What couture does so well is that it gives us the designer's undiluted vision. We are exposed to interesting ideas on cut, proportion, styling, colour and texture. Couture also parades before us the best embroideries, best fabrics, etc. done by some the most talented people alive today.
Dovima, wearing YSL for Dior, in Richard Avedon's iconic "Dovima with Elephants."
You may have noticed that I left some out well known houses - namely new comers like Anne Valerie Hash and Alexis Mabille. I can honestly say that while I have only seldomly observed their work, I was never impacted enough to investigate further. I do not doubt that they have created beautiful clothing. I have just haven't seen it.
I have also left out Valentino, Elie Saab and have regulated Armani Prive to just accessories. There are reasons behind this:
Elie Saab is a talented designer. He has long been the go-to for the after-dark set, but ultimately he suffers from one main problem - inconsistency. Sometimes his collections contain stunning pieces. But too often I feel that for every good frock, there are 5 hideous ones that should never had left the atelier floor. His collections have also gotten weaker in the last couple of years.
Valentino Garavani will forever be known as the king of unapologetic glamour. He made women look their most beautiful. Sadly after his retirement last spring, his house has struggled to find its footing. After promising collections by Alessandra Facchinetti, she was ousted (quite publically - she was notified via the morning paper -YIKES!!) and replaced by a duo team of accessories designers that have flip flopped from slavish homage to overtly courting the too-young Gossip Girl audience. The House that Val built was long a mainstay for gorgeous evening dresses, and of course, the signature red dress. The new designers would be good to return to that foundation.
Armani Prive by Giorgio Armani was the last of the old guard to join the couture crew. While I think him talented, I have never thought there was anything he did better than the rest. Surely Giorgio and Co. create beautiful things, but in my humble opinion, others do them better. Couture should push boundaries or make a statement in cut, colour, fabric, etc. Sameness therefore does not cut it for me. I think his shows have greatly benefited from the hand of good stylist. Whoever styles his shows does a good job of updating his sometimes dowdy clothing with modern hair and edgy accessories. These glittering add-ons sometimes so outshine the frocks that is clear that Armani himself did not design the jewels.
Now that all this is out of the way, we can examine the clothes!!!
Dovima, wearing YSL for Dior, in Richard Avedon's iconic "Dovima with Elephants."You may have noticed that I left some out well known houses - namely new comers like Anne Valerie Hash and Alexis Mabille. I can honestly say that while I have only seldomly observed their work, I was never impacted enough to investigate further. I do not doubt that they have created beautiful clothing. I have just haven't seen it.
I have also left out Valentino, Elie Saab and have regulated Armani Prive to just accessories. There are reasons behind this:
Elie Saab is a talented designer. He has long been the go-to for the after-dark set, but ultimately he suffers from one main problem - inconsistency. Sometimes his collections contain stunning pieces. But too often I feel that for every good frock, there are 5 hideous ones that should never had left the atelier floor. His collections have also gotten weaker in the last couple of years.
Valentino Garavani will forever be known as the king of unapologetic glamour. He made women look their most beautiful. Sadly after his retirement last spring, his house has struggled to find its footing. After promising collections by Alessandra Facchinetti, she was ousted (quite publically - she was notified via the morning paper -YIKES!!) and replaced by a duo team of accessories designers that have flip flopped from slavish homage to overtly courting the too-young Gossip Girl audience. The House that Val built was long a mainstay for gorgeous evening dresses, and of course, the signature red dress. The new designers would be good to return to that foundation.
Armani Prive by Giorgio Armani was the last of the old guard to join the couture crew. While I think him talented, I have never thought there was anything he did better than the rest. Surely Giorgio and Co. create beautiful things, but in my humble opinion, others do them better. Couture should push boundaries or make a statement in cut, colour, fabric, etc. Sameness therefore does not cut it for me. I think his shows have greatly benefited from the hand of good stylist. Whoever styles his shows does a good job of updating his sometimes dowdy clothing with modern hair and edgy accessories. These glittering add-ons sometimes so outshine the frocks that is clear that Armani himself did not design the jewels.
Now that all this is out of the way, we can examine the clothes!!!
