Fall Couture Follow-up - The Formula

Patrick Demarchelier's shot of the Dior atelier workers. Note the toile mock-up and finished coat on Natalia

As promised, I am posting about the Haute Couture for the Fall 2009 season. We established the identity of Madame X a few posts back, and now we get to sink our teeth into her fashion 'buys.' Follow along as we ask ourselves, "Would Madame X wear this?"

THE FORMULA

When shopping at couture, it is best to loosely follow a simple formula. Each fashion house has a specialty, something that they do better than any other. Buying a garment from these houses comes with the knowledge that a better constructed example does not exist. By formula I mean the following:

1. Jackets - Dior. Christian Dior founded his house on the Bar Jacket. Under John Galliano's leadership, it has taken on a whole new meaning. A better fitting, more classically flattering example does not exist.
   
   
2. Tweed Suits - Chanel. This winter staple is so tied to the House of Chanel that I can't tell if which came first, the suit or Coco Chanel.
   
   
3. Everyday Jackets - Givenchy. Newcomer Riccardo Tisci has carved a name for himself by updating and modernizing the jacket silhouette. Definitely one to follow.
   
   
4. Ball Gowns - Dior. Unabashed romance is a house code of Dior. No one does over-the-top, Scarlet-O'hara drama like this Ave. Montaigne atelier.
   
   
5. Corsets - Jean Paul Gaultier. He made Madonna's iconic cone bra. Need I say more?
   
   
6. Trench Jackets & Outerwear - Jean Paul Gaultier. What I love about JPG is that he will create a fiercely tailored piece, but will then throw in a threatrical element that will elevate an everyday item to a level of imagination few can dream up.
   
   
7. Dinner Dresses - Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld is excellent at creating pieces that are best appreciated close up. Perfect for that cocktail or sit down dinner.
   
   
8. Coats - Christian Lacroix. Lacroix has a painter's soul, and the palette of his coats calls to mind the works of great artists.
   
   
9. Red Carpet - Christian Lacroix. Once again, it his eye for colour that set's him apart. Sure, every actress will clamor to wear the latest Chanel or Dior straight off the runway. But Lacroix has a much lower profile. Juxtaposingly, his dresses are anything but quiet. They are as individual and as poetic as the master himself.
   
   
10. Cocktail & Pant Suits - Ralph Rucci. Simply put, the last word in quiet chic. Ralph does the Little Black Dress like no one else.
    
    
11. Accessories - Armani. Whoever design's the Armani Prive accessories does a brilliant job. They provide just the foil that Armani's sometimes old-hat silhouettes so desperately need.
    
    

I say this is to be loosely followed because it's important to be open to the odd surprise. Some seasons we may find a great corset at Chanel, while coveting the ball gown at Gaultier. While these surprises aren't the norm, it is good to go in with an open mind. What couture does so well is that it gives us the designer's undiluted vision. We are exposed to interesting ideas on cut, proportion, styling, colour and texture. Couture also parades before us the best embroideries, best fabrics, etc. done by some the most talented people alive today.

Dovima, wearing YSL for Dior, in Richard Avedon's iconic "Dovima with Elephants."

You may have noticed that I left some out well known houses - namely new comers like Anne Valerie Hash and Alexis Mabille. I can honestly say that while I have only seldomly observed their work, I was never impacted enough to investigate further. I do not doubt that they have created beautiful clothing. I have just haven't seen it.

I have also left out Valentino, Elie Saab and have regulated Armani Prive to just accessories. There are reasons behind this:

Elie Saab is a talented designer. He has long been the go-to for the after-dark set, but ultimately he suffers from one main problem - inconsistency. Sometimes his collections contain stunning pieces. But too often I feel that for every good frock, there are 5 hideous ones that should never had left the atelier floor. His collections have also gotten weaker in the last couple of years.

Valentino Garavani will forever be known as the king of unapologetic glamour. He made women look their most beautiful. Sadly after his retirement last spring, his house has struggled to find its footing. After promising collections by Alessandra Facchinetti, she was ousted (quite publically - she was notified via the morning paper -YIKES!!) and replaced by a duo team of accessories designers that have flip flopped from slavish homage to overtly courting the too-young Gossip Girl audience. The House that Val built was long a mainstay for gorgeous evening dresses, and of course, the signature red dress. The new designers would be good to return to that foundation.

Armani Prive by Giorgio Armani was the last of the old guard to join the couture crew. While I think him talented, I have never thought there was anything he did better than the rest. Surely Giorgio and Co. create beautiful things, but in my humble opinion, others do them better. Couture should push boundaries or make a statement in cut, colour, fabric, etc. Sameness therefore does not cut it for me. I think his shows have greatly benefited from the hand of good stylist. Whoever styles his shows does a good job of updating his sometimes dowdy clothing with modern hair and edgy accessories. These glittering add-ons sometimes so outshine the frocks that is clear that Armani himself did not design the jewels.

Now that all this is out of the way, we can examine the clothes!!!

Wish list: Coffee table books

Every time I go to Chapters, I lust after the following books. To me, they are so much more than just books. These tomes chronicle the lives of two men who have hugely influenced by interest in fashion and represent for me the dream that I will one day achieve. I study these books like text books, and pour over them like a good novel. I dream that they will one day find their way into my possession.

BOOK # 1 - Dior, 60th Anniversary Edition by Assouline

It is MASSIVE, and it probably weighs about 15 lbs. Whenever I flip through it, I have to prop it up against a shelf to support the weight. But it contains every image and detail on the House of Dior. Maison Dior is of course under the cloak of the formidable John Galliano, who I adore. This book commemorates 60 years of this celebrated couture house.

There is a copy of it in the Scott Library at York. I stumbled upon it one day while I was researching a paper. It's hidden up on the 3 rd floor, WAY at the end of long corridor, in the Oversize section. Sometimes when I'm really frustrated with life and in dire need of a good pick-me-up, I go there after class. There, in a little secluded nook, I lay it out on the ground and pour over the images.

I have made a pact with myself. This Christmas, I'm investing in myself and buying this book. Some people invest in good shoes, good furniture, why not good books? That will be $305 well spent.

BOOK # 2 : Valentino by Taschen

Valentino recently retired last year, and the documentary chronicling his career gives us a peak into the life of fashion's last emperor. This book is stunning. Val is one of my major inspirations and to own a piece of his legacy would mean so much to me. What then is $70? Never a trip to the bookstore goes by without a good flip-through. If it goes out of print before I can afford it, I would be heartbroken.

Too often we sit around, hoping and wishing for things to happen. I've got more important financial priorities at the moment, but I will continue to work toward adding these two canons of fashion history to my library.

Photo Credits: Dior Book: Assouline.com; Valentino Book: Taschen.com

Holt Renfrew Challenge #3

CHALLENGE #3:

Choose your favourite style icon from 1920 - 2000 and recreate their signature look.

When I read the challenge mandate, only one person came to mind - John Galliano!

John Galliano is Fashion's Pirate, Trustee of the Dior Legacy & my Mentor. His talent is monumental. But beyond this, it is his outlook on life and his humanity that I am so strongly drawn to. His business sense, immense creativity and humility teach me that you can become a success, while keeping your soul intact. I am forever in his debt.

A cool quote from John :

" It's been a long time since I left (college) but I still feel like a pirate that is plundering the globe for beauty and gems of ideas. A memory, a moment, a person is the greatest treasure... but a diamond is a very good second."

John is known for his outlandish looks. While some designers shyly poke their heads out to the crowd at the end of a runway show, John relishes the opportunity to make his entrance. He has been known for taking to the runway in full hair and makeup, strutting like his models and posing for the camera. What really gets attention are his outfits. Always interestingly-attired, John emerges to his public as character from his collections. One season it was Charlie Chaplin, another it was Madame Butterfly's Colonel Pinkerton. He has been the Spanish bullfighter, the bloody and sweaty boxer, or even the Marquise De Sade. John has explained that this is his way of closing the chapter on the present collection, and creatively clearing his mind for the next. Also, he is following all those beautiful models in their Dior clothes, so he has to make some effort!

Here are a couple of his iconic looks:

John as a vintage sea-explorer, a Spanish Bullfighter, a Colonel Pinkerton, & a street imp

Pinning John down to one look is hard, because he is such a chameleon. But if you look closely, some elements are always present. The fitted vest/ blazer, an theatrical coat/ jacket, and a hat. There must always be a kooky hat!!

I've chosen his look from the Fall/Winter 2005 Couture show, that commemorated the 100th anniversary of the birth of Christian Dior. John served up a genius collection of transparency, classic Dior shapes, and cultural influences.

Let me paint you a picture of his spectacular entrance: As the final girl exited the runway (more like a movie set with lavish props), there was a clash of thunder on the speakers. Smoke filled the room and an actual carriage, drawn by a horse, pulled up. The lights dimmed, and out emerged John looking amazing.

John Galliano after Dior's Fall/Winter 2005 couture show

This look would be relative easy to replicate. I already have the vest. I would need a pair of really funky pants, the hat, the flower pin, and a blond wig. The challenge would be translating his fierceness and energy onto camera. A friend of mine has a trampoline in his backyard, and I was thinking that I could ask him to take the shot as I jumped up and down in the air. Can you imagine the finished snapshot?! Hair flying, fabric flapping, arms and legs extended, all frozen in mid-air. How cool would that look! The only question is, would the wig hold up?

Photo Credits: Style.com

Holt Renfrew Challenge #2

CHALLENGE #2:

Stage a Walk Off showcasing your best runway walk.

How much fun is this!!!!! I can immediately thinking of so many songs to stomp to!

The Look:

Key components of my runway look.

I would pick a look that reflects my personal style. My style is all about easy comfort, old-school tailoring, and good fit. Add in a pop of colour and the odd accessory, and well...you have me! A typical outfit consists of dark brown pants/ boot-fit jeans, a fitted shirt (in either blue or a jewel tone) and brown shoes. To add interest I wear funky socks, and depending on the weather, a scarf and newsboy hat.

My runway outfit would be a reflection of this, but turned up to maximum volume. This is after all, a fashion challenge. Why not go for it?!

I'd pick up a pair of dark red Slim Fit pants from American Eagle (on sale), add a fitted blue shirt, and the black pinstripe vest I already own (H&M). I add comb my hair out into an Afro of curly madness, and tie a bandanna with the Guyanese flag around my forehead like a headband. It seems a bit much, but the red, blue, black and green & Yellow (from the scarf) actually complement each other. I'd wear a pair of bright yellow socks and my black & white Converse.

Hair & Pants like my friend on the right; black & white Converse, although mine aren't high tops; a bandana tied like a head band.

Music:

Three great songs come to mind for stomping fierceness:

1) Take me out - Franz Ferdinand (the beat just begs for walking)

2) Numba One - Kardinal Offishall ft. Keri Hilson (a great gyrating song)

3) Crazy in Love - Beyonce (the ultimate runway song...ever)

Sequence:

Since I'm only allowed about a minute and a half for my clip, I'd combine the best parts of two songs. I'd pick songs 2 & 3, with Kardinal in the intro. As he screams "Everybody light it up!!" I stand with my back to the camera, one hand in the air, counting down from 5. I'd turn around and the music would switch to the opening notes of Crazy in Love. I'd stomp down the runway, with my best emotive expressions. As I pause at the end of the catwalk, Keri Hilson's hook from Numba One would play "I'm going to be your numba one..." and I'd do my best 'The Rock' eyebrow.

Kardinal Offishall ft. Keri Hilson, 'Numba One'


Beyonce's 'Crazy in Love.'

Setting:

It would be shot during late afternoon, somewhere outdoors where I can see the sunset. I'd probably head to York U and find some deserted space there. I can already think of a small courtyard off Vari Hall with great shrubs and plantings that is always deserted. Better yet, the rooftop of of the Ross building. That would provide a great vantage point with both the architecture of York and the setting sun as a backdrop.

Scenes @ York U: Vari Hall ; The great rooftop of the Ross building

Holt Renfrew Challenge #1

I've been up keeping with the Holt Correspondent search, even though I wasn't able to be apart of it. It has been interesting to see the challenges the two contestants have to face, and it's been fun to see how they bring their own unique spin on thing to the tasks. Of course I can't help but wonder what I would have done, so I've decided to do that here.

CHALLENGE #1

Recreate your favourite look from the Fall/Winter 2009 shows.

Inspiration #1

The opening look from John Galliano; a tall ship in the Toronto Harbour

I selected this look because of all pictures that I scanned through during the Menswear shows, this one stayed in my mind. John Galliano, my fashion mentor and favourite designer, has a deliciously mad-cap way of approaching fashion, and this show was no different. Complete with ghoulish pirates, voyeuristic judges and lawmakers, John sent out a collection rich with imagination. What I love equally about John is his strong eye for cut. If you look closely at the opening look, beyond the crazy hair and makeup, you see a gorgeously-constructed trench coat, a brocade vest and a perfectly-fitted pair of pants. These pieces are the most practical parts of a guys wardrobe as a camel trench and brown pants go with everything in the closet. The fit and proportion of both pieces are so John: modern, tailored and theatrical.

Implementation:

What other way to look for such kooky gear than combing through second-hand stores?! I would head to the one on Yonge St. that specializes in old army gear. That's a great place to find an old overcoat. I love the broken-in, lived-in feel of John's version. Next I'd buy a pair of Straight Fit/ Skinny pants. Banana Republic and H&M always stock a pair of close-fitting brown ones. Finally, I'd rent a pirate hat & wig from a costume store and cover myself in white baby powder. Who says you can't have fun?!

Setting:

To create a really great picture, setting is key. To truly do justice to John's look, I would need to go all the way to find an interesting locale. I would the sign up for one of the 2 hour cruises onboard Tall Ship Toronto, a company here in the city that takes tourists out onto the Lake Ontario harbour on a tall ship. After begging the crew supervisor for permission, I would scale one of the masts. Can you imagine the picture?! ...wind in my coat, as I hang onto the mast with a fierce growl...billowing sails, the lights of the skyline in the background.

Inspiration #2: Dolce & Gabbana.

Look #31 from Dolce & Gabbana

The boys from Sicily outdid themselves this season. The fashion world has finally gotten the memo that we're in a global recession. Money is drying up everywhere, sales are down, consumer buying habit is radically changing. Therefore many of the collections for the Fall season reflected the shifting change from disposable, 'It' pieces, to solid investment clothing that will stay chic for years to come. Dolce & Gabbana provided a show that was chalk full of such gorgeous basics. I love their mantra this season - simple pieces, flattering fits, the best fabrics. What more does one need? Look #31 was all about the trenchcoat. As you can tell, I have a passion for outerwear. Which man alive wouldn't want to imagine himself as a dandy dressed to the nines like this?

Implementation

This would be relatively easy to do. I already own a great trench from last fall (H&M), and a newsboy hat in black felt (Big It Up). I'd need to pick up a white shirt and black tie (maybe H&M again?) and a pair of grey slacks. The real challenge would be replicating that great bag. I'm sure the original will cost thousands, but I'd probably find mine at a second-hand shop.

Setting:

While I can't fly to Italy, I can recreate old Europe right in my backyard. I'd head down to the distillery district where old factories and cobblestone streets abound. I'd snap a picture against an old wall, down a deserted alleyway. Can you see it?....dark shadows, a crumbling wall, moody glances, the hat?

What do you think?

The Great Prom Search

The first anniversary of my first major styling gig passed recently. My sister Dacia attended her prom last June, and like every other teenager, needed something to wear. But Dacia is no ordinary teenager. She is one of the most stylish people I know, and her knack for pulling an outfit together is utterly chic. Two other stylish women I know are my youngest sister Amaris (who has an amazing eye for colour) and my cousin Hannah, who can accessorize like there's no tomorrow.

Dacia needed something special; something that matched her bubbly personality and infectious laughter. No mall-bought, cookie-cutter dress would do. Not for my sister. She also had a list of requirements. First, she is petite-framed, so the dress had to highlight her slender build, yet add volume to the right places.

Second, we were on a tight budget, both time-wise and cash-wise. Whatever we found had to be inexpensive, easily tailored, and have loads of pizazz. What other way to go than VINTAGE!!! Also, I knew heading in this direction ensured that none of her friends would show up on prom night in the same dress.

I started out looking up some inspirational looks for Dacia, and one person who kept coming to mind was Sarah Jessica Parker, a true style icon of our time. The Divine SJP is very similar to Dacia. They are both petite, with long hair, and possess an idiosyncratic sartorial spirit. I showed Dacia some Googled looked of SJP in the one style I knew would work for her - the 50's Prom Dress. This SJP signature always works, and I love that she makes it fresh in every iteration because she ensures that she balances the familiar with something quirky. To keep things looking young, it is important to juxtapose classic with edgy, formal with tribal, new with old. It makes things so much more interesting than following a formula of a 'look.'

SJP in (clockwise from top) Vivienne Westwood; Alexander McQueen (with the designer himself); McQueen again & Philip Treacy hat.

So Dacia and I headed down to Toronto's fashion District: Queen Street West. We combed through every store from University to Spadina and way, way, waaaaaaaaaay beyond. Our journey brought some interesting encounters.

First, there were the promising prospects at Fashion Crimes. Every dress, in every shape, in every colour is here. It's a really good place to go hunting if you haven't a clue where to start. However, they were outside of our price range....by a couple hundred dollars.

Fashion Crimes Storefront & Windows @ 322 Queen St. W

Second, there was Lemor. Some beautiful options here, but more suited to the dance club scene. Also, nothing really flattered Dacia as I wanted it to. This was also the place where I almost went into cardiac arrest over the price of beaded chiffon slip. "I'm sorry, how much...?"

Further along Queen W. there were arcades set up along the sidewalk with beautiful jewelry handmade by artisans from all across the African continent. This would have made a great foil to all that 50's formality. But I thought it better to buy the dress first. Let's not put the cart before the horse.

The most interesting experience to be had occurred in Kensington Market, where the kooky owner of a vintage store said that we could get a 20% discount if we went out onto the front porch of the shop and sang karaoke. She wasn't kidding. I could hear the strained vocals of budget conscious shoppers outside as I spoke with her. I couldn't decide what was worse, their voices, or the clothing in the store.

Dacia finally settled on a Berry Red dress from Tribal Rhythm, my favourite vintage store in Toronto. It needed some alterations, but it had tremendous potential. We even got a white crinoline to add some needed volume. Imagine our surprise when we took out the dress at the tailor (the talented Jean Wu), and saw a tag hidden inside with a date from the 1950s!! I don't remember the exact date, but I can't tell you how cool it was that my sister was wearing a dress to her prom was just as fashionable 50 years ago. That is the difference between style and trend.

Dacia accessorized the look with her own black strappy heels and gold mesh earrings. In a last minute decision, she ran to the craft store, and handily made a sash out of some gold fabric. It was exactly the foil that the dress needed.

The pictures below captured a shared moment that I will treasure for the rest of my life.

The gorgeous Dacia: Best Dressed Girl @ Prom! Sometimes I don't think she realizes how stunning she is :o)

Emily Blunt in Vanity Fair

Some gorgeous pictures of Emily Blunt in couture from Fall/Winter 2009 (two seasons ago). Emily is a truly talented character actress who stole the scene in The Devil Wears Prada. She brings those talents to this shoot, as a bored, mischievous aristocrat. Photographed by Michael Roberts for May's Vanity Fair, she wears two Dior ballgowns by John Galliano, and a blouse and corset by Gaultier Paris.

Meet Madame X

Famed model Dovima in a Balenciaga suit, shot by Richard Avedon

As I have been pouring over images of the Fall Couture collections, I have been thinking of the best way to to evaluate them. Couture is indeed an art form, and deserves to be revered as much as great sculpture and painting. But let's not forget the medium of couture - clothes. You don't wear a painting. You don't put on a piece of sculpture. You wear couture. What more practical way is there to understand this medium, than through the lens of a buyer?! I thought it would be fun to create a fictional character, write a narrative of her life, define her desires, outline her schedules, and in so doing understand, "what would she wear?"

Now, it must be said that are real haute couture (h/c) buyers out there. These women are the well-heeled of the well-heeled. When embroidered dresses from Chanel can crouch close to $90,000 dollars at least, you know that these women do not worry about money. Many times they are the wives of billionaire businessmen, sheiks, or are royalty themselves. These women are largely unknown to the general public because the spotlight generally rests on Hollywood actresses and divas who don h/c to drum up publicity for the brand. However, those actresses must return the frocks the next day, whereas these women own their clothing.

Alex. A, a frequent blogger on Cathy Horyn's blog On The Runway, runs a blog herself called The Polyglot, and is the definitive word (at least that I have found) on the couture customer. She does a great job of researching who these ladies are, and examines their stylish choices.

Alex does an amazing, and I must say - exhaustive job - of defining for us the true essence of couture. I've included some topics and their corresponding links for those curious minds who seek to understand more about h/c :

Why so haute? : She examines the cost breakdown of these extravagant pieces.

High Art? : Can you really compare an embroidered dress to a Monet?

Inside an Haute Couture Garment: An intimate look at the work that goes into the clothes

These are all worth a read. Not a skim, or breeze over, but a 'prop-your-legs-up-and-relax-with a-good-book' read.

For now, let's meet our stylish fashionista. Inspired by the scandalous spirit of John Singer Sargent's portrait, let's call her Madame X.

Well, who is Madame X? She's 37. She is married to a Hong Kong billionaire who is CEO of a family-run construction company that is responsible for much of the construction boom in mainland China. No building above 10 stories goes up in Shanghai without his knowledge. Rumour has it that Monsieur X has ties to a powerful Hong Kong triad and is making a bid for political office next year. (If we're going to invent this ourselves, why not make it interesting?)

Although her husband is well-established, Madame X is a self-made woman. She was born in Venezuela and grew up an only child. Raised by her aristocratic mother (The Doña) who took her to couture shows when she was a child.

Madame X went to private school in South America, and did her MBA in Paris. There she met Mr.X. They have two daughters, aged 8 and 6, and a son, 5. A working mother, she runs the client-negiations arm of a communications firm that is competitive in the global market. A tough, no-nonense negotiator, Madame doesn't take no for an answer.

Now you're wondering? Why all these details? Ahhh! Look closer, and you'll see they tell a story about her habits and style :

1. First, her marriage to a Chinese businessman is reflective of the fact that there is a new emerging couture clientele - the Asian customer. The U.S and the Middle East have long been sources of well-heeled ladies, but now that the Far East is exploding economically, a new client base has been created. Brazil and India are also emerging markets.

2. She's 37. That means she's at a stage in her life where she knows exactly what she likes and what looks good on her. Yet she still has a youthful spirit that loves trying new things.

3. She Venezuelan. That means she is a hot-blooded, passionate South American. She likes bold flavours, bold colours, sensual silhouettes. Madame X is no plain Jane.

4. She comes from an aristocratic family. This serves to show two points. It tells us that Madame X is a woman of pedigree and upbringing. Also, her trips to the shows with her mother at a young age also make reference to couture's past. Many of today's clientele were similarly introduced to high fashion through this very method. Carolina Herrera is one example. She has talked about going to see her first Balenciaga show at a young age.

5. Doña X. The other purpose is to introduce Doña X, a couture customer in her own right. Such older women still make up a large portion of couture's customer base, and bring a list of wants and tastes all their own. We will examine some of her choices as well.

6. Her husband has political aspirations and is a CEO. This means that there will be a full social schedule packed with balls, openings, ribbon-cutting ceremonies, press luncheons, and the like that couture caters so well to. Her husband's bid for office means that the low-cut Gaultier number with the thigh-high slit will not be an option to be worn in public.

7. She has three young children and is a working mother. Therefore she needs a practical wardrobe. There's now way she can run after a 5 year old in a satin corset. This woman needs pants suits, good jackets, and things that she can throw on easily everyday. After all, no working mother I know has 3 hours to get ready in the morning.

Is it all falling into place? What we in effect have just done is create a customer based on marketing analysis of consumer buying habits. It's Marketing 101. Using her as a filter, we will examine the Fall collections together and ask ourselves:

Would Mme. X wear this?

Almost that time of year....

Lisa Fonssagrives - the 50's couture icon & wife of famed photographer Irving Penn; also frequent muse to Dior's John Galliano

It's early July, and you know what that means - the Fall Haute Couture shows in Paris!! This is the highlight of my fashion calendar. I can't wait to see what mastery John Galliano and his team at Maison Dior concoct for us this time. Last season's Flemish Artists & Exposed Underpinnings will be hard to top. Also interesting will be Lagerfeld's take on Chanel. His shows are always a must-see. They might not always be approachable, but they demonstrate the mastery of the petite mains like no other! Let's not also forget Christian Lacroix, fashion's resident poet. He creates beautiful sonnets with colour and print. I personally think he should be declared a living French National Treasure.

Sadly, this might be Lacroix's last season, as his company recently filed for bankruptcy in a Paris court. I read in an article that he has never turned a profit in his 22 years in the business. That astounds me. How can someone be in business for 22 years, and not make a single profit!! I will need to read up more on this to better understand the issue.

Christian Lacroix

But it does shake me awake and provide clearer focus as to the purpose of doing my BA. I've been pursuing a Business Administration Degree for the past three years, and it has been a rollercoaster ride to say the least. Lacroix's story reminds me that regardless of how immensely talented you are, you must know the business side of things.

Bathroom Reading

I think this is the coolest! Leave it to the crazy Japanese to come up with something so out-of-the-box. Koji Suzuki, author of The Ring, the Japanese novella on which the American movie is based, can printed his latest horror story called "The Drop," onto toilet paper. I came across it while reading the New York Times Magazine blog called The Moment. Here's the exerpt:


"Who says print is dead? Koji Suzuki, the Tokyo-based author of smash-hit horror novels like the “The Ring,” has found a new publishing medium: toilet paper. Suzuki has teamed with Hayashi Paper Company, which makes novelty printed paper products for public restrooms, to manufacture rolls of toilet tissue stamped with a nine-chapter horror novella called “Drop.” The story, about a goblin living in a public restroom, places the reader at the center of the tale, and each roll contains several copies of the novella so that you can easily pick up the narrative where you left off. (A friend of mine in Tokyo said it’s so scary, she was frightened to be alone in the bathroom.) A roll of “Drop” costs 210 yen, which, at just over $2, is a fair price for disposable art."
- Rocky Casale

On cut and craft...The Resort Shows

I've just spent the past couple of hours immersed in images from the Resort shows for the Summer 2010 Season and I'm overwhelmed with inspiration! I'm so inspired by images from the houses that use interesting influences and translate their work into wearable, covetable clothing!

For the uninitiated, the Resort shows occur sometime in mid-June, before the menswear shows. Resort acts as summer line or transition between the Spring Summer Collections and the upcoming fall shows. As the name implies, Resort looks are all about cool, unfussy pieces that travel well to the many vacation destinations of wealthy fashionistas. For the rest of us, this is a great time to grab some timeless pieces that are cool, chic, and carry the essence of a particular house. Because the clothes are meant to serve as part of a vacation wardrobe, Resort pieces are generally less laden with heavy design elements that the houses laden on during the regular fashion season in order to appeal to magazine editorials and industry trends.

My favourites were Giambattista Valli, Zac Posen & Chanel. All three chalk full of pieces that will stay relevant and fresh after this season has long passed.

Easy summer pieces from Giambattista Valli, Resort 2010




Some great skirt/jacket combos from Zac Posen, Resort 2010



Iconic, easy pieces from Chanel, Resort 2010

As you know, improving my sewing skills is the next thing on my list of goals. I was so inspired by all the images of tailoring, cut, and construction of some of these clothes that I did some detailed research on sewing schools here in Toronto. While I don't want to sew clothing for a living, I do know that I need to learn how to whip up my own samples for presentations, and also to learn the process of translating an idea on paper into three-dimensional form. Most importantly, I want to understand the way different fabrics work, move, and mold themselves to the body. I want to learn the fundamentals of cut, construction, tailoring, draping, and embroidery. This knowledge will allow me to appreciate the experience of those I work with (later on) and will help me to hone my craft. It will also help me to understand the details that create truly spectacular pieces.

I came across an interesting quote from Cathryn Horyn, Fashion Critic of the New York Times, from her blog On The Runway (on which I regularly comment):

".....having beautifully made clothes represents an ideal, and craft is vital to the long-term prestige of high fashion houses like Chanel—indeed to the industry itself. I would argue that the work in the ateliers—the embroideries, the fit, the savoir-faire—is the essence of what makes Chanel exclusive. And exclusivity, like innovation, will matter even more in the coming years."

This quote was pulled from Cathy's insightful speech at the Citi Women & Co. event in NYC where she spoke about the changes to the fashion industry brought on by the recession. She argues that the age of needless consumerism, epitomized by the latest It Bag, is ending. The industry needs to refocus itself to cater to an increasingly savvy consumer, who know has become tired of disposable fashion and craves a well-built, innovative product.